Highlighter is one of the worst kept beauty secrets: Everyone knows that if you want to fake a healthy glow, it's not really bronzer you're after — it's highlighter. Consider it concealer's sexy older cousin. While a good concealer can hide a multitude of late-night sins, highlighter uses reflective properties to distract the eye away from those sins. When well-executed, it lends an effect that amounts to having your own personal lighting team wherever you go, adding dimension to your face without delving into some pro-makeup artist epic contouring session. Available in powder, liquid, or cream forms, with or without shimmer, the amount of highlighters available are endless.However, not all highlighters are created equal. Just like foundation, not every highlighter is made for every skin tone. Depending on what the product is, where you place it, and — not the least of your problems — what your colouring is, you can end up with a shiny, frosty, and dare we say it, somewhat stripper-ish effect. A pearlescent white highlighter just really isn't the best choice for naturally tan or olive skin.
Celebrity makeup artist Stella Kae, who is responsible for the glowing faces of Alyssa Milano, Brandi Cyrus, and Toni Braxton, says she always highlights "as a final touch," after she's completed the full face, to add more dimension. "The ideal places to highlight are underneath the arch of the brow, in the inner corner of the eyes, the bridge of the nose just between the eyes, on the high points of the cheeks, and right above the lips at the Cupid's bow. On a look that is more natural or uses light/neutral eyeshadow shades, you can also highlight just in the centre of the eyelid."
Pale To Fair Skin
For the fairest of porcelain to alabaster skin tones — think Amanda Seyfried or Dita Von Teese — Kae recommends a pearl-colored pressed powder, such as Anastasia Beverly Hills' illuminator in Starlight. The pearl pigment will add just enough opalescence to wake up your face without making you look too "ice princess."
Anastasia Beverly Hills Illuminator in Starlight, $28, available at Macy's.
This Champagne-toned highlighter will give a healthy sheen.
Becca Cosmetics Shimmering Skin Perfector in Opal, $38, available at Sephora.
Fair To Medium Skin Tones
"For fair to medium tones, like Jessica Biel, there is probably the widest product range to choose from, so those that fall into this category can afford to be less selective with their highlighters," says Kae. "Anything from Champagne to pale pink is flattering." She says her go-to for this shade of skin is the NARS Multiple in Luxor.
This gorgeous illuminating powder from Laura Mercier works well on fair- to medium-skinned ladies (who can pull off basically any highlight). The soft, rose-gold shimmer looks just as good in the compact as it does on your skin. And feel free to use it everywhere — even on the décolletage.
Laura Mercier Face Illuminator Powder, $42, available at Sephora.
Medium To Dark Skin Tones
For those with warmer skin tones or that have a lot of yellow in their skin — think Queen Bey or Mindy Kaling — try not to use anything too pink or your skin will look more disco ball than cleverly defined. Kae says your best option is a neutral peach shade such as MAC Cosmetics Prep+Prime Highlighter Pen in Peach Lustre.
Dark To Deep Skin Tones
If your skin is as lustrous and rich as Lupita Nyong'o, go with gold shimmer. "The richer the tone of the skin is, the richer of a gold you can use," says Kae. "Avoid using anything lighter than the skin color since this will create a gray cast. A great trick I learned from fellow artist Saisha Beecham is using loose pearl eyeshadow pigments, such as NYX Loose Pearl Eyeshadows, in anything from pale gold to almost bronze depending on your skin color." If you can't find a shade that complements your skin the way you like it, skip color altogether. "Use colorless products that simply shine," advises Kae.
Aquaphor, Rose Bud Salve, and Kae's personal favorite, Pretty Peaushun Skintight Body Lotion in Clear, tapped on lightly with fingers, will all work with your skin to give off that sheer dimension you crave.
Without a doubt, this is RMS Beauty’s most renowned product, and for good reason. The Living Luminizer seems to work like magic, bringing light to the skin with just a couple of swipes. On dark to deep skin tones, the sheer yet glowing cream does wonders in illuminating skin without making it look gray.
RMS Beauty Living Luminizer, $38, available at RMS Beauty.
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